Power Supplies

Diablo power supply.Is it ok brand

dhooge06 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:26:11 GMT

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817822003 im wondering if any body can give me some life expectancy and performance usage on this power supply as there are only 5 reviews and not much info in them.im having a problem with length(not over 5" deep) and this one fit the length.i need 550 watts and prefer single rail.must power 4850 ati XFX video card.I used an online calculator to get requierments for watts for total system needs.Hear`s the vid card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150337

Eggxpert Tiered Power Supply List

CompWiz — Sat, 17 May 2008 19:50:51 GMT

This is an update of the tiered power supply list originally posted on xtremesystems.org a few years ago. We are continually adding to this list and correcting it when new information is found or comes available. If you think that something about this list is incorrect, or something is missing that should be there, feel free to post that information in this thread. When posting suggestions for changes, it would be very helpful if you could link information supporting what you say, or at least cite the sitewhere you think the information can be found. Of course, personal experience with a power supply can be helpful as well, to some extent, so don't hesitate to post if you have something to add.

Original Phase III tiered PSU list from: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108088

As with any guide there may be psu's that aren't listed, or you mayhave your own opinions on various units. However you can visit SilentPCReview, PCPer, AnandTech, HardwareSecrets, HardOCP, and jonnyGURU for in-depth psu reviews.

WHICH ONES TO BUY ?

Tier 1 provides the best quality power, great for overclocking and super high-end systems.
Tier 2 offers almost as good power and stability as Tier 1 at comparable wattage levels with lower price/better availability.
Tier T offers the high quality components of Tier 2 with slightly less rail stability due to Topower internals.
Tier3 is ONLY recommended if price difference is present between Tier 3 andTier 2 or due to availability issues with Tier 1/2 PSUs.
Tier 4 is recommended for stock or low power systems if Tier 3's are more expensive or are not available.
Tier 5 power supplies are NOT RECOMMENDED, but some brands have high/medium quality power supplies in Tiers 2 through 4.

-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----

Tier 1 Brands - The Most Powerful And Stable Components On The Market
Antec Signature
Enermax Galaxy
Enermax Revolution
OCZ EliteXStream
PCP&C TurboCool
PCP&C Silencer >610
Sapphire Pure
Seasonic X-Series
Silverstone ZF (Etasis 85/75/56)
Seventeam ST >600 (SSI, V2.91)
Silverstone OP/DA >700W
Silverstone ZM
Ultra X3 >1000W
XFX Black Edition
Zippy/Emacs SSL
Zippy/Emacs GSM
Zippy/Emacs PSL
Zippy/Emacs HG2
Zippy/Emacs HP2

Tier 2 Brands - Top Quality components With Top Notch Stability - For Those With Price/Availability Issues With Tier 1
Antec Neo HE
Antec EarthWatts < 700watts
Antec TruePower Trio
Antec TruePower Quattro
Akasa PowerGreen 80+
CoolMax CTG-750W/850W/1KW
Cooler Master Real Power Pro >800W
Cooler Master Ultimate/UCP
Cooltek CT
Corsair HX
Corsair VX
Corsair TX
Enermax Liberty
Enermax Infiniti
Enermax MODU82+
Enermax PRO82+
Enhance ENP-GH
Fortron (FSP) GLN
Hiper Type-M >650W
Hiper Type-R >650W
iStarUSA PD2
iStarUSA PD3
OCZ GameXStream <1000W (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
OCZ StealthXStream (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
OCZ Modstream (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
OCZ EvoStream
OCZ ProXStream
OCZ Z Series
PCP&C Silencer <610
Seasonic S12
Seasonic M12
Seasonic Energy Plus
SevenTeam ST <600
Silverstone EF
Silverstone OP/DA <700W
Supermicro/AbleCom
Thermaltake Toughpower >600W
Xclio GreatPower
Xclio StablePower
Xigmatek MC
Xigmatek HC
Ultra X3
Ultra X-Pro
Zalman ZM <1000watt

Tier T - High Quality PSUs Made With Topower Internals - Less Rail Stability Compared To Tier 2 But Still Better than Tier 3
ABS-Tagan ITZ/BZ <1000W
Mushkin Enhanced
Tagan U95
Tagan U25
Tagan U15
Tagan U22
OCZ PowerStream
BFG 800W

Tier 3 Brands - High Quality and Stability, Second Only To Tier 2 Brands
Acbel Polycom
AMS Mercury
Akasa PaxPower
Akasa PowerPlus (>500W Models)
Antec Basiq
Antec Phantom
Antec TruePower III
Antec TruePower II
Antec TrueControl II
Antec NeoPower 480W (Old Model)
Athena Power Space Shuttle Series
Be Quiet Dark Power Pro
BFG ES
BFG LS
Channel Well
Cooler Master Real Power Pro <800W
Cooler Master iGreen
Cooler Master Silent Pro
Enermax Maximum Plus
Enermax Noistaker II
Enermax Noisetaker
Enermax Whisper II
Enermax CoolerGiant
Enhance ENS-G
Epower Xscale
Fortron (FSP) GLC
Fortron (FSP) THN
Fortron AX
Fortron HLN
Fortron PFN/PN/PA
Kingwin Lazer
Kingwin Mach 1 (the negative 12v rail may go slightly outside of spec in some loading conditions)
NorthQ
OCZ ModXStream (rated for 40° C)
Rosewill RP 2 (temperature sensitive)
Rosewill Xtreme/RX
Seasonic Super Versatile
Sigma SP
Silverstone F
Sparkle FSP
Spire Rocketeer V/VI
Sunbeam Nuuo
Thermaltake Purepower RX
Thermaltake Toughpower <600W
XG Magnum
X-Spice Kira
Zalman ZM 1000watt

Tier 4 - Not Recommend With Tier 3 In same Price/Wattage Range
Aerocool
Antec Earthwatts >700watts
Asus Atlas
BFG 1000W
Cooler Master eXtreme (subtract 100watts from labeled wattage)
Delta
Enlight
E-Power
Futurepower
Hiper Type-M
HIPRO
Lite-On
Masscool
MGE XG
Mushkin HP
NorthQ 4775-500S/BU
OCZ Modstream (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ GameXStream <1000W (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ StealthXStream (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ GameXStream 1010watt (essentially a 850watt power supply)
Scythe Kamariki
Sigma Shark
Sintek
TTGI/Superflower
Ultra Xfinity
Ultra X2 <700W
Ultra XVS
Xion Real Power PowerReal

Tier 5 - Other than the units listed above for any of these brands, NOT RECOMMENDED
A-TOP Technology
Apevia
APEX (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Aspire(Turbo Case)
ATADC
Athena Power
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower USA
Dynex
EagleTech
FOXCONN
FSP Everest
HEC Orion
Hiper Type-R
I-Star Computer Co. Ltd
In Win
JPAC COMPUTER
Just PC
Kingwin Inc.
Linkworld Electronics
Logisys Computer
MGE
MSI
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
NorthQ
NZXT
Okia
Powmax
Q-Tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
Rosewill
SFC
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Spire Coolers
Star Micro
STARTECH
Thermaltake Purepower NP
Thermaltake TR2
TOPOWER TOP
Ultra X-Connect
Ultra X2 >700watts
Wintech
XION
YoungYear
Zebronics

-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----x-----

* This thread is not endorsed by Newegg or its affiliates.

The original unmodified xtreme systems tiered PSU list was posted in these forums by EliteKiller

Antec EarthWatt 650W power supply run Radeon 4890?

Zeph — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 23:39:22 GMT

I have this power supply. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371015&cm_re=ANTEC-_-17-371-015-_-Product

Will it run this card? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161298

The card needs a rating of 36 amps on the +12V rail . The 650 watt power supply has 3+12V rails- +12V1@22A, +12V2@22A, +12V3@25A

Is this enough? Is it 1 rail for cpu,1 for video card, 1 for dvd and harddrives? and which rails go to which part?

Do I combine the rails and add them up? I'm confused... I've done a little research but not sure, I need some who REALLY KNOWS his psu's , and give me as much info as you can please...

q6600-HD4890 Turbo-6gb ram-dvd drive-2 HDD's-windows 7 64

... I think I can cram all this in the dell I'm sure...

Amps requirement for EVGA Geforce8800 Ultra?

denzillion — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:40:16 GMT

Hi All

I am in the process of building a new pc and my friend gave me his EVGA GeForce 8800 Ultra.

I can't seem to find any reference to the power requirement. My friend had 1000w power supply in his unit this card came out off and I know its overkill.

It has 2 ports of 6 pins 12V PCI-Express power plug which comes from the psu. Anyone know how much Amps (in total of 2 ports) I need to have in those from the two 12 volts rails?

Thanks

Older, stock, Compaq 240W/6A v. cheap new 550W/10A

noneYet — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:36:23 GMT

I understand, now, the importance of a good power supply. And I know (more or less) how to tell one apart from your run of the mill cheapo. So you must understand that I would not even consider buying a cheapy-cheap power supply in order to perform this swap. Here's the details.

A recent combo purchase netted me a 550W Logisys PSU, which I shucked in favor of a 400W Corsair. (This was a good move, I can tell you - the Corsair's cabling weighs more than the whole Logisys! Thank you Eggsperts. W/o you I would have been cutting & splicing cables on a unit that wasn't worth the time!) So now I still have this shiny, new, lightweight! unit, just hanging around doing nothing. And I'm gonna keep it whether I'm using it or not - just ask all the K6-350 units that are stacked in the corner! (Any advice on how to put all of that to work will earn you a permanent place on my good-guys list. I keep thinking they're perfect for a practice Beowulf Cluster setup.)

So my number two machine is a university-surplus P4-2.6, HP-Compaq d350. And I kind of like it. It is currently charged by the stock 240W/6A unit. I didn't find a date of manufacture, but it is rated to deliver +12V/5A, +5.08V/14A, and +3.33V/19A. The Logisys more than exceeds all of these, and the -12V. I am left with, I guess, three, no, four questions.

Do 5 or 6 year old Compaq business model PSUs have a very good reputation I don't know about?
The badge also rates +5.08Vaux/3A. Is that the same as the +5VSB? (The new PSU delivers only 2A to this rail. Likely inconsequential?)
The Compaq rates its output of +12.8V as 9A. I could speculate, but why does the old one list +12 and +12.8 separately, and could that impact a swap? (Note that the output of 12.08 is almost twice the 12V current. The Logisys +12V is 25A, more than the sum of the +12 and +12.8.)

In another post, I read about some Dell or Gateway, and Compaq machines having nonstandard pinouts at the 20 pin connector. The wire colors at the plug are the same on both of these, so that should be alright, right? The one difference here is pin 18 (pin 20 if you're counting like 24 pin). The Compaq is empty. Logisys has a white wire. My Biostar MB book identifies this pin as "NC," so my guess is it's neutral, and should be of little consequence, no? (The Compaq plug has no conductor, but the mobo does have a pin.)

Lotta details just to try to put a piece of cheap equipment in an obsolete rig. But I enjoy the tinkering. And, seriously, if anyone has thoughts on how to make a half dozen dinosaurs do something productive, the joy you could bring me is practically boundless!

Thanks again, everybody.

Yet Another "Will this PSU work" question (srry)

irocky — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:33:38 GMT

This is the very first time I've ever built a computer, and only the 2nd computer i've ever owned. My current computer is going on 7 years now, and at the time I used to know what parts worked together but nothing is IDE, everything is sata, DDR is now DDR3, and I have no idea what kind of PSU I will need for my new build at all, since according to the "Eggxpert Tiered Power Supply List" the PSU i was looking at originally (XION PowerReal AXP-850R14N 850W ATX 12V v2.2 / EPS 12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Power Supply - Retail) sucks.

-Mobo: BIOSTAR TPOWER i55 LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
-GPU: Dual SLI Enabled ZOTAC ZT-20103-10P GeForce GTS 250 1GB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail
-CPU: Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750 - Retail
-RAM: 2x Kingston ValueRAM 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model KVR1333D3N9/2G - Retail
-HDD1: Western Digital Caviar Black WD5001AALS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
-HDD2: Kingston SSDNow V-Series SNV125-S2BD/64GB 2.5" 64GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid state disk (SSD) Desktop bundled accessory ... - Retail
-Optical: LG 22X Super Multi DVD Writer Black SATA Model GH22 LightScribe Support - Retail
-Reader: SYBA CL-CRD20023 USB 2.0 3.5" Drive Bay Internal Card Reader - Retail
-Sound: Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card - Retail
-Case: GIGABYTE Triton 180 Black 0.7mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
-Cooling: 1 extra Rosewill RFX-120 120mm Case Fan - Retail
-OS: If it matters, Windows 7 home basic 64bit

What I would like to know, is if the XION PSU I mentioned above is a decent choice and if it would work. If not, what mid-range PSUs qould people recommend that would power my system. I don't need much room for expansion but some would be nice. How much wattage would I need and how much should I get? What connectors are essential for this system?I know my HDDs and such use SATA, but what about my PCI components? Please help in any way you can, because when it comes to PSU I am lost as to what will make everything come together.

PS: If someone notices something in my build that won;t work, or has any recommendations, they will not fall to deaf ears =) Thanks in advance to anyone that can point me in the right direction!

Fan Placement (or Which PSU for a HAF 932?)

SigninName — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:13:37 GMT

As stated, my case is going to be a CM HAF 932 - bottom mounted PSU by default, relatively easily mod-able to a top mount if necessary.

I need around 750w to generously power my system (i7 1156, gigabyte ud3r, mushkin ram, radeon 5850 if i can find it)

Originally I was thinking the Corsair 750w : CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power ... - Retail

But, looking at the tiered PSU list above, I'm now considering a Seventeam ST 750: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817176003

The Corsair has a fan in the back, the ST has the fan on the top. Which would be better (provide more air flow/be cooler) and be a safer investment?

Looking for a PSU need help

bralston9 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:36:14 GMT

Hey everyone, I have a older pc my daughter uses that I gave her. and the PSu died and I need to get a new one. I'm looking for a 450-500 watt psu and I'm not sure what I am looking for. My mobo specs are here if this helps...

The info that supermicro shows is as follows:

To ensure system stability, a 400W (minimum) ATX power supply [8-pin +12V AND (20 or 24-pin)] is required.

http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/E7505/X5DAE.cfm

As you can see, I want something a little more powerful so I can support a new Sapphire Card I will be putting in the machine. I heard you need at least a 450 watt psu for the card, so i figure a 500 watt would be enough. If I'm wrong please let me know.

http://www1.sapphiretech.com/us/products/products_overview.php?gpid=168

If you could provide a link to a PSU that Newegg is selling that would work, that would be great!

I don't need anything fancy or modular. Just a straight up PSU. I don't have any sata, its all ide and molex.

Thanks,

Rob

Is it okay to splice the CPU supply lines?

noneYet — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 04:01:55 GMT

The subject pretty well says it. This is mostly flourish. I needed to replace a motherboard with popping capacitors, and one thing led to a combo deal, which led to another combo deal, which led to a whole new build.

So one of these combos was a case & PSU. The case is the NZXT m59, bottom PSU mount, and I am quite pleased with it. Although it does light up a bit too much for my taste (kind of like the Batman car from the Val Kilmer movie). But the CPU lead only reaches the socket by straining, and only because I don't have a PCIe card installed yet. I don't like straining the wire, and I have ordered a PCIe display adapter, so soon it won't make it at all.

Can I add some length, or do I have to get newegg to give me some credit toward a different PSU?

Min. PSU regarding GPU

AnonymousCoward — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 04:37:47 GMT

Specs:

Power Supply-

Rosewill RP550V2-S-SL 550W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready Power Supply - Retail

Hard Drive-

Western Digital Caviar Blue WD1600AAJS 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - Bare Drive

Motherboard-

ECS G31T-M7 LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

GPU-

nVidia GeForce 8800GT PCI-E

Processor-

Intel Pentium E5200 Wolfdale 2.5GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80571E5200 - Retail

Memory/RAM-

OCZ SLI-Ready Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ2N800SR4GK - Retail

Other/Extra-

No extra PCI slots in use

x1 External Hard Drive (Seagate 500GB External) via USB 2.0

x2 CD-ROM Drives (Standard, Non-DVD)

x1 120mm Fan, x2 80mm fans

--------------------------

Ok guys so I wanted to ask you about upgrading my GPU. Currently I am running a GeForce 8800GT. It's my old card but I actually upgraded everything else as per listed above. I got the Rosewill 550W PSU which is running great and very stable.

I want to upgrade my GPU to a GeForce GTX 260+ - Looking at the minimum PSU requirements as kindly posted by FascistNation in this post it can be seen that the GTX 260-285 requires between 500 and 550W.

I read that the minimum listed is actually lower than that? Any truth to that? Also does the minimum not take into account anything else in my build? So I would really like to know if my current 550W since it is the bare minimum could run a GTX 260-285 with success and without problems.

I know there are calculators out there but I'm not too sure how accurate those truly are.

Thanks for any help - I'm really grateful for this wonderful community here.

49968532

Will this power supply work for my build?

colorme — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 22:53:27 GMT

I'm looking at using the "Antec earthwatts EA380 380W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.0 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Retail" to power:

ECS BLACK SERIES GF8200A (V1.0) AM2+/AM3 NVIDIA GeForce 8200 HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
AMD Athlon II X2 240 Regor 2.8GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core Processor Model ADX240OCGQBOX - Retail
HIS H467QS1GH Radeon HD 4670 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
OCZ Gold 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ2G8004GK - Retail

The whole wishlist is available at: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=11272725

Think it'll be enough?

Will this PSU work? Please help!!!

tesajian — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 16:04:05 GMT

I'm getting ready to order the parts for my build but wanna double check to make sure I have a big enough PSU. Here is what I'm going with:

Case: Lian Li - http://cgi.ebay.com/LIAN-LI-Lancool-PC-K60-Advance-Mid-Tower-Computer-Case_W0QQitemZ220474918827QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33555447ab

CPU: AMD Phenom II x3 720 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103649

Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P AM3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128392

Memory: Corsair 4gb DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145260

HDD: Samsung 750gb 7200RPM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152100

CD/DVD: Sony 24x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118030

GPU: SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102858&cm_re=radeon_hd_5770-_-14-102-858-_-Product (Already purchased)

PSU: OCZ 500W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341016

Thanks for the help!!!

Top or bottom mount PSU

blumesan — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 03:58:38 GMT

I have read the various threads concerning the pros & cons of top vs. bottom mounted power supplies.

However I am confused. Most of the power supplies offered on the newegg site seem to have the fan mounted on the top of the PSU. (e.g. Cooler Master Silent Pro 700. Are such power supplies only suited for bottom mounting??

Thanks.

Need a New Power Supply for a Dell Dimension 9100

MTinMD — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:31:37 GMT

Hi,

I have a Dell Dimension 9100. The stock power supply is 375W, I beleive.

I currently have a GeForce 7900 GT/GTO and it seems to run fine on the power supply eventhough the suggested is 450W. Can't remember exactly what the amp rating is on the 12 v rail.

Anyway, I think it is a BTX case and I have tried upgrading the power supply before and they didn't fit, the screw holes did not line up.

Does anyone have any ideas for a power supply in the 600W range that will work? I am looking to get a GeForce 2xx series video card.

Or, as an alternative, would taking all the stuff out of the Dell case and putting it all in an ATX/BTX case and just getting an ATX power supply be a better idea?

Hopefully this post made sense....lol

Thanks in advance for any advice/input,

Matt

Any suggestions for a power supply?

Justindub — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 18:28:25 GMT

Here's my system:

Core i5 CPU

4GB DDR3 RAM

DVD RW DRIVE

EVGA 260 GTX 216 core

the video card is my main concern. it requirs 500 watt PSU with 36A on a +12v rail. i'm am a newbie when it comes to system building, and not sure how to make sure i meet the requirements on a PSU. If someone could give me a suggestion that'd be great.

Is this power supply sufficient for my build?

Justindub — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:00:54 GMT

My main concern is my video card. Let me know if this is a sufficient power supply for my setup, i'm a newbie and need some help or suggestions.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817709024

I think the PSU might be the issue.......

DonMeldek — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 01:51:48 GMT

My Problem:
Constant freezing. No mouse, keyboard, or anything function. Requires hard re-boot.

Causes:
Unknown specifically, however I can force a freeze with WoW even on lowest settings and the Vista Rate your PC thing.

Side Notes:

I built this rig last september. It ran great for about 8-9 months. Thats when it started freezing more and more often. The last straw was recently when I could not even log into WoW (set on lowest settings) without rebooting.....meaning I got to the log in screen, punch in my password and bam....like a bad episode of Reno 911......"Everybody Freeze"

Things I have done already:
Ensured all drivers are up to date.
Removed all but one stick of 2 gigs ram and rotated them all through with no difference in general perfomance.
Contacted Vista Tech Support....;( Not much help but hey, whatever.
Vista TS lead to CHECK DISK (forever) and new install of Vista.
Which lead to their conclusion that my GPU was going bad.
My Previous GPU was an EVGA 9600 GT, so I purchased the above MSI GPU as a fix to my problem that Vista TS evidently was wrong about. Installed and works like a champ only I still can not complete the Vista rate your pc thing without it freezing.
I have yet to re-install WoW to see if that still causes it also as I am at work till Monday.

Other thoughts:
I built my own PC so that might be my problem. Though I would considder myself somewhat tech savy I know i'm kidding myself when talking to the likes of you all
However, I have a friend at work that has built several PC's and helped me at every step of this build from research to super glue on my "finned" finger tips. (thanks Zalman) Only he is dealing with major chick drama and I need assistance before I see if a size 11 Danner fixes my PC.

Please Help if you can.....

V/R,
Don

Need help with OCZ 500W-700W ModXStream Pro

Bry — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 14:18:33 GMT

I'm looking at the OCZ 500W-700W ModXStream Pro Power Supply. I need more power, I just burned out my PSU and all the PSU charts I've read show I need a 500 watt PSU.

What I need to know is how do they split up the rails? If the PCIe is one rail and the rest on the other rail this thing is useless as I'll only be using one rail. I've looked though everything I can and nothing shows how the rails are split. I would hope the mobo and CPU are one rail and the rest is the second.

Can anyone tell me how the rails are split up before the sale ends tonight?

New power supply

pcook — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:27:29 GMT

I recently got a new power supply that does not have a 3 pin cpu fan connection. I saw a place online that had a dual 24 pin connector but ended up being $25 after 6 day shipping. Does Newegg carry one? Would it be better to just get a mloex - 3 pin connector?

Manufacturer Wattage Rating for Power Supply

EngineerRob — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 02:48:50 GMT

How is the wattage rating calculated?

Besides the 12v rails, what is included, and does the efficiency rating have any bearing on what the box says?

Can I reuse this power supply for my new build?

mikeciara — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:32:59 GMT

Trying to assemble a budget system with the following components:

MB: ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO

CPU: Athlon II X4 620

MEM: 4GB

HD: SATA x1

CD/DVD: x2

I would like to reuse my old power supply -- a good quality PC POWER & COOLING 410 watt (w/ 23amps on a single +12v rail). I would need to get a 20pin -> 24 pin adapter for the main power connector but the existing 4 pin +12v ATX power connector would work just fine.

Would this arrangement work? Am I trying (as usual) to be too cheep? Or should I just suck it up and spring for a new power supply?

All replies appreciated (flames included).

PSU gave a high pitched noise and shut down

antoind — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:14:21 GMT

Hi,

I recently bought a 1000W Everest FSP Fortron PSU (80+ modular 2.2 ATX etc...) -supposedly a very good PSU-, and the PC it is powering is:

ASUS M4A79 790FX Mobo (New), AMD 9950 Phenom X4 140W, ASUS ATI 4890 VGA (New), and 4x2 GB Crucial Ballistix 800Mhz RAM, 500 GB WD Caviar Black HD (New)

System and PSU were stable for about 1 week, no excess heat or noise even under heavy load, until yesterday.

Yesterday, the PC had been running for about 8h, downloading and updating windows Vista, and then I started up a 3d game: Empire Total War, which is a very heavy application. And here is what happened:

1- The game was just starting when the PSU gave a light but noticeable high pitched noise and the whole PC shut down while laoding the game.

2- The PC wouldn't turn on and the blue light on the PSU switch was off. I turned the PSU switch on and off and the PC booted up.

3- I tried running the game again and the same thing happened at the same time and the PC shut down. Had the reboot the PSU from the k of the case.

4- I tried it a third time and nothing happened. Everything seems to be back in order now. All applications run without a problem even when the PC had been running for a long time.

I need help to figure out what might have happened, is the PSU bad? should I keep using it? Is it safe (i m afraid it will kill my new VGA card, and Mobo if it happens again). Anyone had a similar problem?

Thank,

Anton

4pin to 8 pin adapter for cpu?

Jahaziel — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 16:15:10 GMT

Would i be able to use it? I seen it online so i would think can. Am i correct? I have two 500W PSU That i might need adapter for?

Antec BP550 Plus vs OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ500MXSP?

DrDrift — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 13:39:34 GMT

I was considering these two power supplies... I need something in the 500 watt range and I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on which is better.

What is this?!

JJWeatherman — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 21:12:59 GMT

I just went through neweggs power supply calculator and it gave me a number I didn't expect. The amount of power it recommended was 1,580W! I was shocked considering I am going to try and build a 1 video card computer without a lot of extras. Anyways I went to another calculator listed on these forums and it said I only needed about 300W. Is neweggs calculator broken? Why would it recommend so much power?

Here's a screenshot:

link to larger pic:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/4026717763_783469909d_o.png

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