EggXpert

My first PC build was created researching Form Factor..and Microsoft compatibility..and Intel Parts..

The Sales Rep. at Intel suggested only Intel BOXED Part Numbers..

and the Instructions inside the Intel BOXED Part suggested that the Processor and Intel Cooling Technology be installed after the Motherboard was fully installed inside the Case..taking care to understand the "No Go Zones"..

I would suggest a Brand New HDD for any new set-up..even a New OS would have me purchasing a New HDD..

My PC is a D915GAGL..and has been running for just over a year..and still only uses the CD that came w/the Intel Mobo..there have been NO BIOS-updates..though I have used the DEFAULTS-reset at times..and completely re-configured the System Set Up Program..

I would suggest the use of ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION..rather than placing each and every piece of computer hardware to the Start Up Procedure..(PC Build)..

Place a SINGLE RAM Module in SLOT-0/

and leave all PCI-expansion SLOTS...empty..

Plug nothing into the USB 2.0 PORTS..

First INSTALL The OS CD..and then the Motherboard CD from the manufacturer..

The PC should now be ready to Update and Upgrade.[end]

Thanks helped me out allot.

It could be helpful for my next build.

Great guide. Now, I haven't read other people's comments, just the guide.. So don't get pinchy with me if i'm not the first to say this..

 But I think you should add on how to install the drivers (cdrom/floppy/hdd) etc.. And, the thing that scares people the most when they open a computer.. wires. I'm not 100% sure how to build a computer, so I want to know what the wire is you're talking about, and where do both ends go..

Basically, add more detail to make this a COMPLETE computer building guide. :)

 

But either way, awesome guide. High five!

Nice post!  It's very informative and detailed, but about the static portion of the guide: it doesn't take much static to destroy ESD sensitive stuff.  You should either wear an ESD wristband thats attached to the chassis.  You don't even have to buy one.  Mine is made of a clothes hanger and some copper wire.

 

^ I'm interested.. What exactly is an ESD wristband, and how do you get/make one?

Hi, thanks for the guide. I think for my first all-by-myself build I kept pretty close to your instructions. Except, I'm running an SLI capable board and vid card with out actually SLIing it. Nothing in my manual or anything else mentioned SLI select single. Can you point that out where that is to me? I'm wondering if this is why I'm having problems with my gaming.

 Thanks.

Master:

^ I'm interested.. What exactly is an ESD wristband, and how do you get/make one?

It's actually very easy, all you need is some copper wire and a metal hangar or some other bendable metal that you can put over your hand.  Just attach the copper wire to the metal wrist band and attach the other end of the copper wire to the chassis or the case of your PSU.  I put alligator clips on the ends of the copper wire so I can just clip it on my left hand and go to work.  You can also buy them from places like radio shack I think.  I bought my ESD wristband and mat at an army surplus auction so I bought it real cheap.  ESD wristbands go for about 10$ and the mats for like 50$.  But, as long as you're not taking out your components and leaving them on the table you should be fine.

Good luck with the build, and glad to be of help. =D
 

learned something good guide.

Thanks! This is a huge help!!

Great guide. 

Just a few other suggestions.  As far as static goes, if I don't feel like wearing a strap, or if you can't afford one, keep the chassis in your lap during the build.  Just please make sure the PSU is not plugged in.

The thermal paste application posts have been great, I like to clean my HS first though.  Don't use a cloth, use a plastic bag if you do this.  Just wrap your finger in a plastic bag, dip it in rubbing alcohol and rub that on the contact of the heatsink.  Let it sit for several minutes before mounting it.  Don't use cloth, we don't want any combustible fibers in there.

I also tend to use a disposable razor for spreading of the paste, but you really have to be careful with this method.
 

i didnt build my pc just yet but i was told to install CPU to motherboard first, i have a p35 mobo, an E6750 cpu, can anyone clear this up for me?

It all depends on how big your case is.  If you can get your hands comfortably into the case with the mobo installed to install the processor and heatsink then you can do it that way.  It is easier to install the CPU and HSF onto the mobo outside the case first before installing into the case. Just make sure you place the mobo on top of the anti static wrapping it came with and use a grounding wrist strap.

 

 

Great guide man, my next PC is going to be a custom build after this one dies. This guide will be very helpful

an esd wristband is eltrical static discharge band

very well done and humor does help, but you forgot step one: RTFM!

Great guide for newbies like myself

 

Also, is it alright if we use latex and/or plastic gloves while building our system? I don't like fingerprints on parts, especially new ones.

 

Thanks again for the guide! 

There is not need to do that, it is save enough to hold the component with your bare hands, as long they are clean and dry.

I only use some light cotton gloves when I'm dealing with a case that comes with sharp edges, but most of the time I don't bother to put them on, I just take extra care not to cut myself.

excellent!

I skimmed through parts of it but it seems more like the common sense side of it rather then the technical babble. For example I am more worried about getting compatible parts, and getting the right fans in the right places and what not, than i am worried about smashing components into slots that they are not made for. Either way, nice tutorial.

 

Theres a couple handy pictures 

 

nice add freezy,,,,

Since this is a tips for a newbees first build I would add some common mistakes IMHO:

1.  Buying the latest and greatest for your first build.  While I would not recommned buying low end components or low priced out dated components, I have seen people buying the most newest components hitting the market for their first build.  Cutting edge tech is frequently buggy, and if you have no experience troubleshooting problems and not having a working system to swap components into and out of you will find any problem arising frustrating.

2.  A variation of the above is watching someone build a moderate system and plug the most powerful video card on the planet into it and wonder why it won't work or perform well.

 3.  Boxed/retail parts are usually preferable when you are starting out to OEM because you get a lot more (and usually very good quality) parts and software/instructions present that may not be present in an OEM package for $10-15 more.  Sometimes a much better warrantee/ support too.

4.   I usually DO NOT order from the very cheapest place I can find.  I have learned there is usually a reason why something is too good to be true.  I usually try and order all my parts from the same retailer/ merchant.  Usually they will allow you to specify (include a note) to the effect that "ship all products together in a single shipment."  Remember your return time is limited.  Sometimes as little as 7 days.  Sometimes that clock starts the day it is shipped, not received.  Read the policy.  If you requested a single shipment and something is missing, get on the phone and demand (nicely but firmly) an extension of the return policy until all of your parts have arrived.

5.  Because of that return policy, get started building your machine as soon as you can.

6.  Most systems consist of a case, power supply, motherboard, cpu, memory, video card (if onboard video not present), DVD burner, hard drive (SATA/300), keyboard, mouse, operating system. 

7.  Vista has a lot of compatibility problems with hardware.  If you are going to build a Vista system I encourage you to download the latest hardware compatibility list (HCL) for Vista from Microsoft and use only those parts.  You will save yourself a world of frustration.  I also recommend 4Gb for Vista as it is the most biggest memory hog imaginable.  2Gb works very well for XP, or Linux (you may want to look for motherboard and expansion card drivers for Linux before you buy).

 8.  You generally don't save any money building yourself.  You get no warrantee or support.  But you get the satisfaction of really knowing your computer and putting the parts you want in.

9.  Don't skimp on the power supply.  Make sure all the parts are compatible with each other (download the manuals ahead of time and do your homework).

10.  Two great books for building are Scott Mueller's "Upgrading and Repairing PCs" and  the Thompson's "Repairing and Upgrading Your PC."

Great writing!. It worth sticky.

Thanks to everyone for the additional tips and insights.  Also MechBGone's site, referenced earlier, is great for it's wealth of pictures and things that wren't included here for the sake of basic info and brevity.

I limited my guide on purpose.  Why?  Because the whole world doesn't run Windows.  I usually triple boot between XP, Vista AND whatever flavor of linux seems neat this month. And I can't possibly cover every build and hardware config.  But I can cover the basic, Processor, Heatsink, Motherboard, Memory, Video Card, basics.

I also left out Raid stuff, because I typically don't use it.  

One side tip: Using XP on newer SATA based boards and whatnot, some boards have to be placed in "Native Mode" to get XP to recognize the harddrive.  

I run into this problem quite frequently at work, older setup with early SATA adoption, harddrive goes out and system needs rebuilt.  

Yes you can use a USB floppy and try to boot the drivers.  The last build on my MSI K9N Diamond didn't seem to like that solution for XP.

Same process for most BIOS flashes if the new board does not take the even newer processor.  

Now I'm running XP Pro 32-Bit, Vista Business 64-bit, and Sabayon Linux 64 bit.

But for those Windows folks, as soon as the OS gets loaded, hit it with your factory motherboard CD.  Most the time you'll get your base drivers without a hitch.

Just make sure Windows Update doesn't go and try to fix up your hardware without your knowledge.  I have liked systems with NVidia Chipsets because one driver download from NVIDIA fixes pretty much ALL hardware on the board.  The ATI chipsets, you do a lot of looking on their site for the right driver.  

64bit OS's usually require downloads that aren't on the factory CD, or it could be that the factory CD doesn't default to run on a 64 bit OS and the drivers ARE on the CD. Case in point the Elite Systems Group Black Series motherboard.  Drivers are on the disc, but the installer won't run on a 64bt os.  And under XP or Vista tries to install the incorrect hardware for the sound.  That's poor workings on ESG's part.

When you get to Windows, Or Linux, or OSX (hackintosh anyone??)  Drivers can be really tricky.  If you stick with well established names for your chipsets, most of the time you'll do OK.

Also if I didn't mention it.  Don't canibalize your old machine for parts until you've got the new one running.  Helps to have one up for internet research or for downloading drivers if you need em.

BSOD's are usually the result of a bad setting, a piece of hardware that doesn't have a driver, bad memory, or a faulty windows install.  

I'm sure there's a lot of stuff I'm still leaving out, but after building and rebuilding so many times, you sort of go on auto-pilot and leave a few things out here and there cause they just automatically come.  

Once you've got a stable running base system, prior to all your game installs or other software packages, make an image of your disk and keep it in a safe place.  Then doing a restore is pretty simple.  You get your OS, your base drivers and everything simple quick and easy.  ALSO if you upgrade hardware from the last base image, make a new image so long as the system's running fine.