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FascistNation

The inane ramblings of a elder computer geek.
What is my Budget Range? Part 2

Previous Part 1: How to decide on a computer build? 

Part 2.  What is my Budget Range? 

[be sure to account for taxes and shipping]  I can tell you that many people have unrealistic expectations.  Will building my own computer save money?  Often not.   Check out ads online and in the Sunday papers.  [Best Buy, Fry's, OfficeMax, OfficeDepot, Staples....] Local Mom & Pop Shops. Sign up to receive Newegg's newsletter, which daily offers weekly deals on numerous items that can save you tens of dollars.  Check the daily deals.  There are some great deals which is one of the reasons why Newegg is so popular.
If you are really budget tight be sure to check out prices of systems, refurbished systems, bundled items and clearance systems. You can find some good bargains or some tired dogs.  Shop wisely.  Arf! 

Are you realistic? If you are looking for a computer for much under $300 don't bother.  That is rock bottom and reliability and ability to upgrade are limited in the below $500 category.  Also this price often does not include any I/O (input/output) parts: that is, monitor, keyboard, mouse, and maybe speakers.  Add those and you are minimally in the $500 area.

So, what can you afford?  If all you can afford is $300, consider upgrading your current computer with a CPU + MB + RAM combination.  You can often upgrade a computer significantly ... but not if it is too old; where virtually all its parts are outdated and worn out.  People often make  the mistake of waiting too long then putting money into an old computer (like$200+ for a CPU for their old MB) that would be better spent on replacing these three aforementioned items for one heck of a bang for the dollar.

Will I buy all new parts, or will I be using some parts from a current computer?

You can often reuse the case, ODD (optical disk drive), monitor, keyboard, mouse and speakers from an old computer.

Reusing a more than three years old PSU (power supply) from a computer is generally unwise.  Power supplies -- particularly those NOT protected by a good power strip or UPS (universal power supply=backup battery) -- take a beating over time from power surges.  And their capacitors age whether in use or not.  After three years a PSU often has lost 30% of its rated power output.  And in a factory bargain computer it is typically the PSU where corners were cut to lower the price.  Frequently PSU's from noname vendors never supplied the stated voltage even when new.  As the temperature inside the case rises, the maximum voltage the PSU is able to supply falls.  Better quality PSU's use better quality, longer lasting capacitors and will be capable of lasting many years of use if properly protected.

Hard disk drives (HDD) can also be reused with these caveats.  One, ATA (IDE, PATA) controllers are disappearing off of the motherboard (MB).  Eventually this old technology will vanish all together. 

Most MBs will support two IDE drives these days.  Usually a single ODD placed upon the end of the cable.  But if you wish to place a HDD onto this cable it should be at the end, with the ODD in the middle --- both in a "cable select" arrangement jumper setting. 

If you have a Windows XP/Vista operating system on an old hard drive and it is OEM (original equipment of manufacturer) initially installed by a computer builder [You can check by going to the General tab in the Systems Folder and the "registered to:" should say "OEM" in it if it is an OEM version.] you will be in violation of your user agreement (EULA) if you transfer the operating system to another CPU/MB.  That said it can be done, but it may require some skill and skulduggery.  If it is not an OEM copy of XP, it can be moved to another computer under your license, as long as it is only on one computer.

If you use that HDD as the boot drive, you will have to install new drivers (but if XP is attached to the Internet it will actually make a pretty good attempt to find and install the correct drivers for you), and almost certainly have to re-activate your copy of Windows.

RAM tends to be replaced by faster RAM in a different form every three to five years.  DDR2 while common is finally phasing out to DDR3 manufacturer, and now is a great time to max. out motherboards with DDR2 for the dollar.  But anyone with DDR or PC133 RAM is in possession of RAM of little interest to anyone.  Equally trying to stick old DDR2 @ 667MHz into a modern MB capable of running standard 800 MHz speeds or greater may detrimentally effect overall performance of your system...especially when 4Gb of DDR2 RAM can be had for $40 to $55 these days.

Video cards also rapidly fade.  There are some classics still out there, but standards change.  AGP was replaced by PCIe, and now PCIe 2.0 (backward/forward compatible with PCIe 1.0 standard).  Anyone with an AGP card--it is also a dead technology.  If you have a MB with AGP or even older PCI based video in need of upgrading, you should replace the system, or at east the CPU+MB+RAM if it will fit in the old case.  Otherwise you are throwing away good money towards dying tech.

I laugh when I see somebody state they want a fast gaming computer with BlueRay, and an 8800GTX GPU for under $300.  Unrealistic? Heck, delusional!  I have seen somebody as for ideas on a three hundred dollar build, only to come back when people propose possibilities and state they want to play Spore, WoW, Chrysalis or get faster video editing.  It is not going to happen at that price.  Any thoughts otherwise is a fantasy for now. 

You can buy, right now, some impressive laptops for $300 (called Netbooks) that are targeted at wirelessly surfing the Internet and doing email.  And not much else.

Next: A bit of history and encouragement

 

Published Monday, February 23, 2009 7:31 AM by FascistNation

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Comments

# re: What is my Budget Range? Part 2 @ Tuesday, February 24, 2009 1:00 PM

AGP is fine for Linux. (OK: I needled you a little on video editing.)  I do wish finally to jump to AM2/AM2+ for the Windows system. Should I go with high end AM2+ AMD 64 X2 (Kuma) or low-end Phenom? I'm not going to go 125W yet....

I'm glad ddr2 mem really is cheap on newegg. I know I'm going to have to get a good PS: I have a bunch of underpowered PSes lying around! Now, I prefer 80 plus or other high-efficiency PSes to save money on power, to save emissions, and to reduce heat....

I don't think single-core AM2/Intel Skt. 775 in the PCI-E world will gain me much over what I have now, even though prices are really good. And, I don't want to overclock--my old video cards developed artifacts later on from overclocking (OC'ing did help heat the house a few years ago!). I've been an AMD guy forever, and, I don't know much about Intel's stuff.

One advantage of self-build is that an initiate will gain PC expertise and won't ever have to lug it around to be fixed by an expensive techie: Often techies simply reformat for software problems--isn't that a shortcut to thinking?

A big reason why major box builder's PCs are cheaper is that they get super-sweet deals from Microsoft and other software companies. The rest of us have to pay through the nose for Windows, and, certainly Office....

Furthermore, will their PCs ever use a case such as the CM Centurion? That likely never will happen, will it?! (The Centurion is extremely durable: It's not inexpensive enough for them, though.) In the past, major box builders' PC parts often were proprietary--that situation is better, but it's not completely gone, is it?  Thanks!

gsnoorky

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